Differences between Black Mold And Mildew

Many population do not identify mold and mildew together. In all honesty, mold is exactly like mildew. Both are similar and both can be toxic if inhaled. The thing about mold and mildew is that they both are moisture type molds. This means they will amplify and grow in moist environments. Mildew which is usually green can also be many distinct colors. Like mold which is usually black or sometimes white. Can also be many variations of color. Many times in inspections there are molds that are growing on walls and are pink, white, black, and every other color of the rainbow. This just means that these molds are distinct species and are growing at distinct time frames. In most cases when viewing mold on a wall there is usually the most prominent thing to remember. You will observation next to the mold that there is usually water staining. If you see water staining this is where the source of your black mold problem is advent from.

Mildew and black mold all grow from some sort of water source. They will attach themselves to construction materials because the construction material is the source of food for the mold and mildew. If you do not act swiftly in removing this mold it will then reproduce a natural defense called myotoxins. Once the mold creates this defense principles it is now carefully toxic mold which can cause harmful if not fatal health issues.A lot of times basement and house mold grows because of high humidity. While inspections an inspector will all the time focus on high humidity areas to find the source of the mold. The challenge is after finding the source of the black mold. Is admittedly cleaning it and removing it correctly. In this situation you have two options. You whether will use a remediation company. Or you will use a natural mold discharge product. A remediation company maybe beneficial, but if the problem is not huge then it is recommended to plainly use an effective mold discharge product. The best mold cleaning goods is one that will remove mold and also block it from growing again. Black mold needs a food source so if you do not remove the food source it will come back to haunt you.

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In order to effectively remove black mold and other toxic spores from basement and indoors, you need to focus on the source of the problem. Black mold and mildew are similar and both enjoy being inside of wet environments. Mildew and black mold grow on most construction materials and like high humidity areas. In order to effectively remove the black mold in basements, homes, bathrooms, and other parts, you admittedly need to find the source of the problem and assault it full on. Inside of your home has a unavoidable climatic characteristic which you usually keep it at. When this climatic characteristic is raised and humidity levels increase, this is when mold becomes a problem. A lot of times in basements there is usually a change of climatic characteristic that increases the black mold and mildew to grow faster. Be sure to check all perimeter areas of your basement. A basement will usually have black mold hiding behind panels, underneath rugs, and other corners which you usually do not look at all the time. If you are clever, you may want to look behind work panels inside of your basement. Be sure to use proper equipment and restoration if available. Inhaling black mold spores can be a problem if allergenic.

Differences between Black Mold And Mildew

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9 Things To Do When Your Roof Leaks

Springtime storms can bring a lot of rain, which can retell roof leaks. What should you do when an April shower finds its way into your living room?

First, control the interior damage as swiftly as possible.

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Move any items that have not yet come to be soaked. If furniture or other items cannot be moved, cover them with plastic sheets to safe them from the water. Gain dripping water in a leak proof holder and make sure the holder is on a solid surface.

Remove the water.

Begin to dry up water that has soaked into carpeting and furniture. For carpeting that has come to be wet, you may need to pull the carpeting away from the padding. Expose the backing to air and allow it to dry. This will also give the padding underneath a chance to dry, and cut the chance that mold will grow. Circulate as much fresh air as inherent around the affected areas.

Call your insurance agent.

If your living space has sustained a needful whole of damage, call your insurance agent. Your procedure may or may not cover damage to the interior from a roof leak. Do not wait to call the agent. They can normally observe the damage within hours of your call and help you get started on the process of cleaning up or replacing your damaged contents.

Inspect the roof, inside and out.

As soon as possible, check the roof for confident sources of standing or pooling water. Make sure the valleys, gutters and downspouts are clear of debris and allow the water to move freely off the roof and away from the house. observe the roofing materials. Make sure all parts of the fundamental roof are covered with shingles, and that the water barrier is not exposed in any way. Keep in mind that the water's point of entry into the living space may not be directly below the roof leak. Roof leaks can "travel" so observe the whole region of the leak carefully. You may also find it beneficial to observe the roof from the attic space above the living quarters. That may supply a great indication of how the water is entering the structure.

Clear the gutters and downspouts.

Remove any confident blockages and clear the downspouts if they are clogged. You can often do this with a garden hose. If the downspout is clogged, and it cannot be cleared with a hose, you may have to remove the downspout from the gutter and clear it by inverting the downspout or using a broom deal with or other long object to push the debris out of the pipe. When it is clear, reattach it to the gutter and direct the water away from the foundation.

Inspect the flashing.

Some roof leaks are not the supervene of clogged gutters or downspouts. Instead, leaks occur where the roofing material is worn or damaged. In other cases, the flashing around chimneys, vents, or roof projections is damaged and allows water into the structure below. observe the flashing, where chimneys, dormers, vents and other attachments abut the roof. If the flashing is in poor condition, it may need to be replaced. If the sealing around the flashing is damaged, a generous application of roof tar may plug the leak.

Look for private damage.

Roof leaks often produce over time, so water may Gain unnoticed for some time before it enters the living space. When you observe the attic, check for any private damage that the leak may have caused. Look for wet spots on the roof planks or panels, discolored wood, damaged Osb panels, strange odors and dirt on the insulation. Check the interior for bulges in the ceilings and walls, peeling paint, and badly cracked plaster or wallboard. All of these are signs that something may not be right in your attic or walls.

Check for pests.

Ants and other water-loving pests will find wet wood a very fascinating place to build a nest. If you sense a sudden invasion of ants, powder post beetles, pill bugs, sow bugs, earwigs or other water-loving pests, immediately look for wet wood. An exterminator can rid your house of these pests, but the only way to make sure they stay away is to remove the wet wood and remediate the problem.

Call a licensed roofing contractor.

If your inspection reveals a lot of water damage, or an old roof that simply needs replacement, and if you aren't up to replacing it yourself, call a licensed roofing undertaker of a package deal to fix or replace your roof. simply re-shingling the roof will not fix most roof leaks. If the roof is leaking, the most likely cause is a breakdown of the waterproofing layer underneath the shingles. In that case, all old shingles should be torn off, and the water proofing layer, along with the shingles, should be replaced.

Re-roofing can be expensive, so be sure to get any estimates from distinct contractors before choosing person to do the work. Verify that the undertaker of a package deal you choose is licensed, has insurance and will apply for the proper municipal permits to do the work. Do not allow the undertaker of a package deal to begin work on the house if permits have not been issued and make sure the undertaker of a package deal replaces all of the damaged wood prior to re-roofing the house. After the roof work is complete, ask the undertaker of a package deal to go over proper roof maintenance with you, and be sure to get a final inspection from your municipal housing authority.

9 Things To Do When Your Roof Leaks

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Upgrade Your Rv With Led Lighting

If you do a lot of boondocking (no hookups while camping), then you know battery life is one of the most leading things you must plan for, especially if you have a small battery bank. One great way to save a lot of power is to convert your existing incandescent lighting to Led lighting. Led stands for light emitting diode and provides light in a very distinct way than incandescent or fluorescent lighting sources. The biggest benefit for a boondocker is that Leds wish very little power to operate, so you won't have to be so known of switching off lights when you don't need them.

Just how much power can you save by going Led? In a typical trip trailer of say 27 feet with a super slide and a combine of bunk beds, you may have upwards of 20+ 12 watt incandescent bulbs. If you were to have all of these on at one time, you would be drawing colse to 20 amps of Dc power. In a few hours, your single group 24 12-volt battery would be near dead. Even if you had two batteries, you wouldn't have much left to finish out a 2-day weekend without a battery recharge.

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Now if you were to replace every interior incandescent bulb in this fictitious trip trailer with a 24 Led array warm color lamp, each drawing 190 mA, the total power consumption drops to 3.8 amps, over 5 times less power consumption. You wouldn't likely replace every incandescent bulb with a 24 Led array lamp but you could and if you did, you would be using 5 times less power, even if you had every light switched on.

There are several distinct routes you can take when doing the Led lighting mod: private lights, such as a night or reading light, all or some interior lights, interior and exterior, storage compartments, etc. Much will depend on you allocation and coolness factor you are trying to achieve. Replacing every incandescent bulb may just break your piggy bank, but doing a few can still help save some battery power.

Using a single Led for a night light, like in the bathroom, can be a real life saver. Well, it may not save your life but if you have to get up at 2am to go, you won't be blinded by the light and you should be able to go right back to sleep. A single Led associated through a Spst toggle switch mounted on the bathroom light fixture can provide just sufficient light to do your business.

Perhaps you just want to convert a few lights out, like the lights over your bed, that are ordinarily too fascinating to read by. There are direct replacement Led lamps that wish no modification to the lighting fixture, other than swapping bulbs. For this type of Led lamp, use the "warm white" type. The cool white Leds provide a bluish tint to the light color and may not petition to your reading tastes. The warm white Leds provide a yellowish light color very similar to that of a normal incandescent bulb.

If you plan on replacing the main lights inside the Rv and have the type of fixtures that include two bulbs with a switch in the middle, you can replace just one of the bulbs to sell out cost. This way you not only save money, but you also can still provide more light when you need it by switching on the second bulb. For this case, you should think Leds that have a wide beam angle, at least 120 degrees. This is the angle at which light is projected from the lamp. The wider the great if you're trying to light up a large area. These lamps are typically configured in a flat box with many Leds, as many as 36 in some cases. They plainly affix to the fixture with Velcro and plug in just like a suitable bulb.

Another cool Led mod is to fit a Led rope light under your Rvs countertop. Many upscale Rvs have this highlight as a suitable selection but there is no think you can't have this classy look either. First, have person help you test fit the rope for length, ensuring you have sufficient for the whole countertop. Then get some double-sided tape and stick it to the cabinet or under the countertop where you want the rope to run. If you have any left over rope, drill a hole the size of the rope's diameter and run the excess through the hole. Just stick the rope to the tape and press firmly. You can also add a switch to operate the rope power as well.

A step light is also someone else easy Led mod that consumes very little power. If you forget to turn it off, you don't have to worry since it can be on for days and still be easy on your battery. You can use a courtesy light or an amber side ticket light. These mount with a combine of screws to the underside of the stairwell. Power can be run to an inconspicuous switch inside. Some even have light sensors so they can automatically turn on when it gets dark and turn off in the morning.

Outside compartments are also a great candidate for Led lights. These can be powered through a pin switch so that when you open the compartment door, the light turns on, and then off when you close the door. The color of the Led light is not so leading as is the placement of the light. Compartments are ordinarily rectangular in shape, so try and place the Leds near the corners of the compartment. This way, you will get the most light to all parts of the storage area.

Finally, upgrading your Rvs face lighting can make for a very clean look as well as improve security going to the road. Led porch, marker, clearance, backup, turn, and running lights are all candidates for Led replacement. Fortunately for you, many companies, like Bargman for example, now make direct replacement fixtures that include all you need to achieve the upgrade. Just be sure to allocation sufficient since total face lighting replacement can run in to the hundreds of dollars.

Tip: Led brake/tail lamps may not work with some older thermal flasher units found on some vehicles. An Led brake/tail lamp will wish an electronic flasher/blinker unit which is ordinarily ready at your local auto parts store. Just ask for the electronic equivalent of your thermal flasher.

Upgrade Your Rv With Led Lighting

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Rv Tips for holding Tanks

Today we're going to talk about Rv retention tanks. To start with, I wanted to mention something about Rv retention tanks that I don't think a lot of Rvers are aware of. Many of the free dump stations available to Rvers are windup because of chemicals that are harmful to septic systems and because Rvers are abusing these dump stations. If we want to have passage to these dump stations it is for real primary that we use septic safe chemicals (no formaldehyde), and that we clean up after ourselves and do not abuse dump stations.

Your Rv has what is referred to as a gray water retention tank and a black water retention tank. The gray water retention tank collects dirty water from the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower. The black water retention tank is for the toilet. These tanks halt into one main outlet used to empty the retention tanks. This is where we associate our sewer hose.

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Make sure you have the required couplings and connectors. It may be primary to attach two hoses together to reach the sewer connection. I recommend you only use heavy duty sewer hoses. Their not that high-priced and they hold up much better. Keep a 10 foot hose and a 20 foot hose available. Do not pull or drag the sewer hose on the ground. This will cause it to tear or get pin holes in it.

To hook up the sewer hose make sure both valves are ended and remove the sewer cap. Make the connection by putting the hose adapter over the outlet and turn it clockwise until it locks securely in place. Take the other end of the hose over to the campground sewer connection. Use the primary adapters to make the connection and get a good seal. It's a good idea to place some weight over the hose so it doesn't jump back out when you drain the tanks. It may be primary to use some type of sewer hose keep to get a good angle from the Rv to the campground sewer connection so the tanks drain properly when you empty them. The small valve is for the gray water tank and the large valve is for the black water tank.

One golden rule for Rv retention tanks is to never dump the black water tank until it is at least two thirds full. You want the tank nearly full so the weight and the gravity will force the contents of the tank to drain properly. Another golden rule is to never leave the black tank valve open at the campground and expect the toilet to drain or flush like the toilet in your home. It won't work.

When the tanks are full, or nearly full all the time dump the black tank first, followed by the gray tank. The gray water tank should also be at least two thirds full. Dumping the gray water tank last will help to flush the sewer hose out.

When you're at the campground for an extended period of time you can leave the gray tank valve partially open so it drains as you use it, but remember to Never do this with the black tank. If it's time to leave the campground and your retention tanks are not full you can halt filling them with water and then dump them. Never use your drinking water hose for retention tank maintenance or cleaning purposes. Rv drinking hoses are usually white. Take a dissimilar color hose for others uses so you can distinguish the difference.

After you dump the tanks you need to completely flush the tanks out. Some Rvs have a built in system for flushing the tanks out. If not there are other ways to do it. You can use a tank wand designed for cleaning and flushing the black tank. The only problem is you don't know when or if the black tank is for real clean and you can't rinse or clean the gray tank with a wand. I use a stock called the Flush King. It's a reverse flush valve that connects directly to your sewer outlet and rinses and cleans both retention tanks in one straightforward operation. It's easy to use and it has a see through barrel so you know when the tanks are for real clean.

Every time you dump the black tank you need to treat it with retention tank chemicals to sustain in controlling odors and to break down solids. You should all the time use environmentally safe chemicals. Enzyme based chemicals use the good bacteria to dispell waste and operate odors. Formaldehyde based chemicals destroy the bacteria that's needed to break down waste and they can be risky to humans and pets.

The first step is to add sufficient water to completely cover the lowest of the tank. Four or five toilet bowls full should be sufficient depending on the size of your black tank. Water will sustain a great deal with controlling retention tank odors. You all the time want the contents of the tank to be covered by water. Next, fill the toilet bowl and add the proper amount of retention tank chemicals, usually four ounces for every forty gallons the tank holds. Flush the toilet. Repeat this procedure every time you empty the black water retention tank. Some retention tank chemicals like Rv Trine also contains valve lubricants to keep the valves operating properly and expand the valve seals life.

You should all the time use toilet paper designed for use in Rvs. This toilet paper breaks down and dissolves in the retention tank chemicals preventing possible problems with the retention tank, the Rv sewer system and the dump hub septic system.
False retention tank readings on your monitor panel are caused by the retention tank probes being covered by toilet tissue or other debris. If flushing the tank doesn't solve the problem add some water and a couple bags of ice cubes to the empty retention tank. Drive or pull the trailer so the ice cubes can scrub the sides of the tank. proper retention tank chemicals will also keep the retention tank probes clean.

Over time grease and residue builds up in the gray tank and it causes a foul odor, not to mention how it is affecting the tank and valve assembly. Periodically treat the gray tank with environmentally safe retention tank chemicals to avoid odors from the tank. When the tank is empty you can also add some dish washing liquid down the drains to help break down grease and residue build up.

Following these straightforward retention tank tips can forestall problems and provide you with long continuing problem free retention tanks. This is one problem we can all do without! All of our Rv walk-through videos cover information on Rv retention tanks, the water system, Lp gas system, electrical system and more. Check out our new "Rv primary Items" Dvd to show you what items you will want for your Rv to make all of your Rv experiences more enjoyable.

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv education 101

Rv Tips for holding Tanks

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Cleaning Up Black Mold on Ceilings

Before you plan on starting a black mold ceiling cleanup operation, first witness all the ceilings in your home and witness the damage. If it's just one or two rooms, say, the basement and the attic, you might want to buckle down to business and do the job yourself.

This would involve taking down the ceiling boards carefully, wrapping them in plastic (to keep spores from flying colse to the house while transporting them) and cleaning them up with soap and water in the yard.

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Never endeavor to clean mold-contaminated stuff inside the home. You will only spread the spores to other furniture or parts of the house, and in a few days, your mold problems are back!

Now, if you are asthmatic or are especially prone to allergies, don't endeavor to do the job yourself, regardless of either you're an exquisite Diyer. Remember, countless persons have been rushed to the hospital for severe asthma attacks after exposure to the spores of black mold.

If the boards have already been severely damaged or are now too unattractive because of discoloration, you may opt to replace them with ones. This not only improves the look of the room but also ensures that no mold spores are left behind to again reproduce.

When cleaning off the black mold, always wear protective gloves and masks to protect yourself. And since you're working with a strained position - that is, seeing up into the ceiling - you're also exposing your eyes to mold spores that may inevitably fall off. Put a pair of soldering glasses back on or any protective pair of glasses to avoid an irritation of the eyes.

In the shower, black mold not only grows on the ceiling but also on the shower room tiles. To clean them, put in order a composition of water and bleach to kill the mold. You may want to purchase other cleaning clarification to treat the discoloration, or if the black mold contamination is deep-set, you can opt to replace the shower tiles instead.

Prevent the recurrence of black mold

After a approved cleanup, ensure that the Black Mold won't reappear soon by holding humidity levels in your house at a constant 30-60% and no higher. Black mold thrives in highly humid areas, so development conditions below their optimum levels would deter their added growth.

It would also be wise to have all leaking pipes fixed before restoring the panels which you have cleaned. You may have to shell out a combine of hundred dollars to have a plumber do a approved inspection and repair, but the added price may well be worth it, if it means ensuring your health.

Cleaning Up Black Mold on Ceilings

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How To remove Wallpaper Borders

So you bought a new house. You love all about it except for the ugly wallpaper borders in practically every room. Time to get them off the wall. Removing wallpaper borders is not an easy task, but with a few good tips and some elbow grease, you can get the job done.

The best way to take off the wallpaper border depends on what type of wallpaper was used, what type of face it was glued on and what type of adhesive was used. One of the easiest things you can try is to use a hair dryer to heat the wallpaper border which may loosen the adhesive adequate to let you peel it off.

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Usually if the border has been glued to wallpaper, it will come off fairly easy. Slightly mist it down and use a plastic scraper to take off it from the wall. If the wallpaper border has a vinyl face that won’t let the water or any market wallpaper remover soak through, use a perforation tool over the whole face of the border to allow it to soak in.

If the wallpaper border has been glued directly onto a painted wall, use warm water and some commercially ready wallpaper remover and give it abundance of time to soak in before you try to scrap it off.

Steaming also works well for removing wallpaper borders. Steam the whole face of the wallpaper border. Start from the lowest to the topmost part in sections. If the adhesive is very strong, steam the boarder twice or more until the wallpaper boarder starts to loosen from the wall. Use a plastic or soft metal scraper to avoid damaging the wall. Scrape the border off the wall working from the lowest up. Use warm water and a clean parasite to take off any remaining adhesive from the wall.

Instead of using a commercially ready wallpaper stripper, you can also use a combination of fabric softener and water. Mix 1 capful of fabric softener with 1 quart of water. Pour it in a spray bottle and spray it right on the wallpaper border. For very strong adhesives, you can also use a parasite and soak the boarder with pure fabric softener.

Another “homemade” choice is vinegar. Mix water and vinegar and pray it on, or use an old paint roller and roll it right on the wallpaper boarder. The stronger the wallpaper adhesive seems to be, the more vinegar you should use. Use the vinegar choice as a last resort, since it will smell pretty strongly for a few days. Wipe the walls down with a damp rag after you removed the wallpaper boarder to get as much of the vinegar as potential off your wall.

How To remove Wallpaper Borders

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Tips For Replacing Your Bathtub Drain

Bathtub drains occasionally need to be replaced, and drains with the built in stoppers are the ones that commonly have problems. These will with time become harder to use and will slowly allow water to leak while the tub is supposed to be plugged, as well as hold water when they are supposed to drain. These are the reasons that you cannot properly rinse off your ankles in the shower in many cases. In time your bathtub drain stopper mechanism will need to be repaired or replaced. This is literally a minor fix that most do-it-yourselfers are willing and able to tackle. You will need to have on hand some plumber's putty, channel locks (or other wrench), a Philips screwdriver, and the exchange part for the bathtub drain you are replacing as well as a few cleaning rags.

Start by removing the old bathtub drain plug mechanism. This has a face plate in the tub which has two screws attaching it to the tub. Once you remove the cover plate you will gain passage to the rest of the assembly. Simply grasp it and remove through the hole it was installed in.

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If you have any broken pieces you have a merge choices; if you have passage to the other side of the wall the easiest thing to do is open the wet wall panel and make the fix in the open space but this is commonly not an option. The most likely scenario is you are going to have to fish out the parts in a very small amount of space. A piece of wire, or a wire hanger, straightened into a hook works well.

Once you have fished out all of the old pieces you merely need to clean up, and reassemble and reinstall the pieces. Often you can fix this type of draining mechanism without having to replace any of the parts by Simply cleaning it up and putting it back together correctly.

For those drains that do need to be substituted you need make sure your new parts are the same as the old parts were. Changing to distinct sized parts when you are working with plumbing is not a good idea, unless you like having your home flooded.

Test the parts, make sure all things is in good working order. If the stopper fits in and plugs the pipe properly you are ready to setup the bathtub drain stopper. If not you need to get the right tool first.

Plumbers putty should be used on all of the pipes and flanges where they attach to one another to make sure they seal well. The mechanism that lifts and lowers the stopper needs to be attached to the overflow plate. Before you seal the plate down make sure the stopper is working properly by testing it. If the tub is keeping water and draining the water back out at accepted times you are ready to seal the plate down.

You need to smear some plumbers putty on the plate and then put it in place and screw it down. You can then clean up any excess plumber's putty. Make sure that you haven't covered the overflow vent and you are finished. Your bathtub drain should work as good as new.

Tips For Replacing Your Bathtub Drain

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Beautifying the Bathroom Without Overspending

Are you planning to renovate or to beautify your bath and shower area? Are you confused on how to redecorate your bathroom without spending much? To gain insights and tips on how to refurbish your bathroom cost-efficiently, read this narrative below.

Bathroom is an prominent area in every home because it is where we relax and where we re-energize after some hours of work at the office and at school. It is where we clean up, where we pamper ourselves and where we accessorize ourselves when we are attending some special occasions.

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Despite its significance to our lives, it is one of the most neglected areas in our home because we regularly prioritized our living room, kitchen and bathroom when it comes to refurbishments and renovations.

Remodeling or renovating a bathroom could be high-priced if you do not know how to deal with your budget. We can save money on bathroom remodeling if we plan accordingly and if we are watchful of our expenses. By plainly setting limitations, you can refurbish your bathroom without splurging much.

Here are simple yet effective bathroom refurbishment techniques:

Consider your budget. Make a list of all the things that you need for renovating your bathroom. By establishing your budget, it would be easier for you to eliminate things which are out of your price range. Once you have ready everything, the next step you make is to source these things and to make a comparison of their prices before you make your purchase. If you feel that your list exceeds your allocated budget, prioritize urgent remodeling fixtures. You can correlate products and prices by driving in market and surfing some online bath and shower retail sites. If you are literally on a very tight funds and you feel that you cannot afford to splurge on bathroom redecoration, you article yourself with changing the interior paint of your bath and shower area. If possible allocate few dollars every payday to save money for hereafter bathroom renovation. If possible buy the cheapest deal in town without sacrificing the ability of products. If possible, buy all your bathroom fixtures in one store to get discount. You can also buy items online to enjoy cheaper prices and to save on gasoline costs as well.
If you want to make your small bathroom bigger without tearing down the walls, use lighter shade of paint, install brighter lighting fixtures and add extra window to let in the natural rays of the sun.
Recycle things when necessary. You can reuse and recycle old bathroom cabinets stored in the carport by sanding and putting new varnish on it. Avoid throwing the things which you removed from the bathroom after refurbishment because you can use it again in your hereafter bathroom renewal tasks.
If you cannot afford to buy new tiles for your bathroom, you can all the time use tile paint to freshen it up. Select a shade that complements with the style and theme of your bathroom.

By following the tips and techniques mentioned beforehand, you can refurbish your bathroom at least cost.

Beautifying the Bathroom Without Overspending

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What Is the inequity in the middle of a Walk in Shower and a Walk in Shower Enclosure?

There are so many ways of expressing the same thing these days and walk in showers isn't exempt from this. It beats me why anything would be anticipated to know that a walk in shower is the same thing as a walk in shower enclosure as one term infers that it is some kind of casing and one term infers that it is an actual shower. However, they do both reveal the same product; a walk in shower is the exact same product as a walk in shower enclosure. You may also come across added terms such as walk in shower cubicles and walk in shower cabinets. They're all the same. Life used to be so uncomplicated years ago; there was one term to reveal one product. Ah, the good old days.

So, what is a walk in shower enclosure?

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A walk in shower enclosure is a glass paneled cabinet which houses your shower. This is quite a literal, definition as there are many variations depending on the needs and requirements of your bathroom. For example if the shower was to be set within the recess of the bathroom then only a particular panel of glass would be needed. The glass used is commonly toughened, this is attached to a bracing bar for added maintain and at the other end fixed to a shower tray which collects and drains the waste.

What are the benefits of a walk in shower?

If you are lucky sufficient to have the space within your bathroom, then why not use it. As it is a stand alone unit, it allows for more than one someone to use the bathroom at a time.

You can splash about to your heart's article and not worry about spillage.

They are ready in many sizes and styles so can fit in with your bathroom design and personal needs.

Let's admit it, as well as being functional, they add a touch of style and glamour to a bathroom.

When a walk in shower might not be suitable for you

After having sung the praises of walk in shower enclosures, there are, however, instances when they may not be suitable for you.

As mentioned previously, the glass panels of a walk in shower enclosure are attached to a shower tray. Shower trays are slightly raised in height, some more than others, so if you are a someone with restricted movement then it may be worth considering creating a wet room result within your bathroom.

In this instance, the glass panels of the enclosure are fitted to the floor of the bathroom which, incidentally, would be tiled. By doing this, the need for a shower tray is removed and easier shower access is granted.

All in all, a walk in shower enclosure is a good investment for any bathroom as it adds value, is very practical and can be adapted to suit the needs of most home owners.

What Is the inequity in the middle of a Walk in Shower and a Walk in Shower Enclosure?

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How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Staining kitchen cabinets, and how you get ready to stain depends on what you are beginning with.

Are you building your own cabinets? Are your cabinets unfinished in your carport waiting to be installed? Are your cabinets new and already installed, but in need of staining? Are you stripping your cabinets and then re-staining and refinishing them? Or are you going to try your hand at re-facing?

Shower Panel

You will get ready and stain a bit differently for each of the above situations; however, there are some basic steps and supplies that are universal when you are staining kitchen cabinets.

List of Basic Supplies You Will Need:

a good stain (I like a good oil-based stain, like a Sherwin-Williams oil based wiping stain) stirring stick sand paper (150 to 320 grit) saw horses or work bench to stain on drop clothes/cardboard cotton rags floor covering pieces or other tool to apply stain (the right floor covering in fact works well to get into those nooks and crannies) clothes/shoes you don't mind getting dirty (the stain won't come out - it's a good idea to invest in a body apron that you don't mind getting ruined) dust mask/respirator face mask latex or rubber gloves lacquer thinner or acetone (to take off stain off of where you don't want it - like hinges or the floor; if you don't have these, you can use finger nail polish remover, most include acetone) well ventilated area to work in area to set wood to dry
Step #1 - take off Doors, Drawers, Hardware and Lay Flat

If you are building your own cabinets, staining them is simply a step in the building process. You can stain everything, and put terminate on it too, before you ever put whatever together.

If your cabinets are pre-built, try to take off as much hardware as possible (handles and hinges). It is much easier to put the hardware back on than to try and clean it later. If you can take the hardware off, number each piece, then also put that same number on the wood where the hardware sits - development sure it is inconspicuous.

You should also take off the doors and drawer fronts before you begin staining kitchen cabinets, if you can, so you can lay them flat. Again, if you take off hinges, etc., do so and number so it won't show on your fulfilled, product.

The benefit of having an item lying flat while you are staining kitchen cabinets is that the stain and terminate won't run all over and create a look you don't want - sloppy. Who wants to put a lot of work, time, and endeavor into staining kitchen cabinets, just to see the fulfilled, product look sloppy and fully unprofessional? learning how to stain kitchen cabinets means ending up with a stain job that looks gorgeous and pro and says to the world that you know what you're doing. You want your cabinets to look like you paid a fortune, even if you didn't.

Step #2 - Look Your Pieces Over and Sand If Necessary

When first staining kitchen cabinets, look over the pieces you want to stain. Do they need to be sanded first? Most likely they are already sanded well, and you'll just have to sand out small scuff marks which resulted from handling them or installing the cabinets.

Use a fine grit sandpaper, 150, 220, or even higher. Once you begin staining kitchen cabinets, any marks you've missed in sanding will jump out at you. You can all the time sand out marks and scuffs after you've stained your kitchen cabinets, but that takes more time and energy, so try to do a good job of sanding initially.

Step #3 - Setting Up The Area Where You Will Be Staining Kitchen Cabinets - Remember security First!

It is a good idea to stain items on saw horses if you have them, or on any sturdy table or bench that is about waist high. As you learn how to stain kitchen cabinets, you will be glad you used a drop cloth or cardboard on your floor or on any area that you don't want stain on. You can use lacquer thinner or acetone to wipe up stain, but it doesn't all the time work (like you can roughly never get stain out of clothes). Also, lacquer thinner or acetone might melt or ruin what the stain is sitting on. If you don't have lacquer thinner or acetone, use finger nail polish remover. It has acetone in it. Don't inhale the fumes of such products, or get them on your hands.

You'll also need to mask off any parts of the cabinets you don't want stained, such as the interiors.

Wear clothes and shoes you don't mind getting dirty, and/or a full body apron.

You should also wear latex or rubber gloves and security glasses when you are staining kitchen cabinets. These precautions are not only for when you are learning how to stain your kitchen cabinets, but are necessary even if you become an expert. Safely is of the utmost importance.

Alert: Beware Of risky Fumes. Wearing a dust mask won't do any good against fumes. Only wear a dust mask if you are in the sanding process. You will whether have to invest in a respirator face mask for your safety, or ensure that you are in an extremely well ventilated area, such as your carport with doors wide open, or both. Fumes from the chemicals used while you are staining your kitchen cabinets are extremely dangerous, not only to breathe in, but, if concentrated enough, they can cause an explosion. And, don't be fooled by water-based products. They can give off fumes and risky odors as well. Each product's danger level is different, but error on the side of caution. Knowing how to stain kitchen cabinets means knowing how to do it safely.

Step #4 - Applying The Stain

Once you know where you are going to be staining kitchen cabinets, and have yourself and your area prepared, open your stain can and stir well. This cannot be overstated enough. When the can sits for any distance of time, the stain will cut off and sediment (color) will sit at the lowest of the can. If you do not stir well, the stain you use from the top of the can will be much lighter than the stain you end up using at the lowest of the can (and at the end of your project). These results will not look good. The things you stain first will be much lighter than the last pieces you stain.

To apply the stain, one of the easiest tools to use are old floor covering remnants. Cut them into roughly 4 x 3 inch rectangles. Dip one end of the floor covering into your stain, then rub the floor covering onto your wood. It doesn't matter if you go with the grain or against the grain at this point, you just want to make sure that you cover all surfaces. If you are doing intricate work, such as doors with groves or raised panels, be sure to get stain into corners. Over staining at this point is a good idea, because the excess will be wiped off. This is where the drop clothes and wearing an apron come in handy, because it can get pretty messy!!

After you apply stain to your piece, look it over to make sure you didn't miss any spots. Areas that are generally missed in learning how to stain your kitchen cabinets include: grooves, door edges, drawer edges, or any corners - like where the raised panel corners meet the door frame.

Step #5 - Wiping The Stain Off - A Very foremost Multi-Step In Ensuring Your Piece Looks Great

As you are first learning about staining kitchen cabinets, I advise you wipe the stain off immediately. Most cans of stain advise leaving the stain sit for 10 minutes, then wiping off the excess. I've found that this does not usually turn the color, so why wait? Also, if you are staining kitchen cabinets that are already installed, or already built, and you can't lay pieces flat, your stain will run all over if you let it sit for any distance of time. You will want to wipe it up as soon as possible.

If you want a darker piece of wood, buy a darker stain color. The only time that waiting to wipe excess stain off will in fact darken your piece significantly is if you can let it sit for over 30 minutes. This is in fact a false darkening, and the question with it is that your stain is usually so dry by then that it's difficult to take off smudges and wipe off the piece properly. The stain ends up sitting on top of the wood, not soaking in. Use your own judgment. If you determine to wait the 10 minutes, do it on every piece to ensure consistency.

Actually wiping the excess stain off in itself is a two step process.

First, have some cotton rags at your disposal. Put a rag in each hand. Never touch your wood with bare or gloved hands alone after it's been stained, as it will leave a smudge mark. Wipe off the bulk of the excess stain. At this point it doesn't matter if you are going with the grain or not, you just want to get the big spots of stain wiped up.

The second step is a finishing type step in staining kitchen cabinets. Take an additional one clean rag. Go back over your piece of wood, this time with the grain. The second rag takes more stain off, preventing smudge marks. The biggest enemy in staining is leaving smudge marks.

Following these two steps and not being afraid to use rags as needed will ensure that you don't leave any smudges. Look your piece over. If you have left any smudges, wipe off gently and blend color in with your cotton rag.

Step #6 - The Final Step In Staining - Set Your Pieces Aside To Dry

Now that you've learned how to stain kitchen cabinets, set your pieces aside to dry (or just let them hang there if they are already installed). You can lay your piece on a flat exterior if only one side is stained. If your piece has multiple sides that are stained, you can lay it flat on something that allows for air circulation to the back, such as saw horses, or if you do sufficient staining, buy a pro staining rack. One caveat: where the saw horses or rack touch the stained piece, smudge marks may be left. Before you terminate a piece that has dried on such equipment, you may need to touch up that side.

You can also lean your piece against a wall to dry. When your stain is drying, it is best to let air get to as many sides that you have stained as possible. It's also okay to let fans run in the area where you are drying your piece. This helps it to dry faster and doesn't hurt the end result; however, never let fans run on a a piece that you've put terminate on.

How long your piece has to dry depends on what type of stain you are using. Read the label and act accordingly.

One Final And foremost Note About security As You Learn How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Remember to hang your rags to dry, ensuring air movement colse to them as well. Too many times, bunched together wet staining rags have caused a tragic explosion resulting in fire and even death. Please be careful!!

You Are Now Ready For The Next Step - Finishing

Congratulations!!! You have learned how to stain kitchen cabinets and have completed your staining project!

After your pieces are fully dry, you are ready for the next step - putting a beautiful, clear terminate on your beautifully stained kitchen cabinets!

And remember - Have A Happy Kitchen!!!

How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

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