Monday, January 23, 2012

Differences between Black Mold And Mildew

Many population do not identify mold and mildew together. In all honesty, mold is exactly like mildew. Both are similar and both can be toxic if inhaled. The thing about mold and mildew is that they both are moisture type molds. This means they will amplify and grow in moist environments. Mildew which is usually green can also be many distinct colors. Like mold which is usually black or sometimes white. Can also be many variations of color. Many times in inspections there are molds that are growing on walls and are pink, white, black, and every other color of the rainbow. This just means that these molds are distinct species and are growing at distinct time frames. In most cases when viewing mold on a wall there is usually the most prominent thing to remember. You will observation next to the mold that there is usually water staining. If you see water staining this is where the source of your black mold problem is advent from.

Mildew and black mold all grow from some sort of water source. They will attach themselves to construction materials because the construction material is the source of food for the mold and mildew. If you do not act swiftly in removing this mold it will then reproduce a natural defense called myotoxins. Once the mold creates this defense principles it is now carefully toxic mold which can cause harmful if not fatal health issues.A lot of times basement and house mold grows because of high humidity. While inspections an inspector will all the time focus on high humidity areas to find the source of the mold. The challenge is after finding the source of the black mold. Is admittedly cleaning it and removing it correctly. In this situation you have two options. You whether will use a remediation company. Or you will use a natural mold discharge product. A remediation company maybe beneficial, but if the problem is not huge then it is recommended to plainly use an effective mold discharge product. The best mold cleaning goods is one that will remove mold and also block it from growing again. Black mold needs a food source so if you do not remove the food source it will come back to haunt you.

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In order to effectively remove black mold and other toxic spores from basement and indoors, you need to focus on the source of the problem. Black mold and mildew are similar and both enjoy being inside of wet environments. Mildew and black mold grow on most construction materials and like high humidity areas. In order to effectively remove the black mold in basements, homes, bathrooms, and other parts, you admittedly need to find the source of the problem and assault it full on. Inside of your home has a unavoidable climatic characteristic which you usually keep it at. When this climatic characteristic is raised and humidity levels increase, this is when mold becomes a problem. A lot of times in basements there is usually a change of climatic characteristic that increases the black mold and mildew to grow faster. Be sure to check all perimeter areas of your basement. A basement will usually have black mold hiding behind panels, underneath rugs, and other corners which you usually do not look at all the time. If you are clever, you may want to look behind work panels inside of your basement. Be sure to use proper equipment and restoration if available. Inhaling black mold spores can be a problem if allergenic.

Differences between Black Mold And Mildew

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Wednesday, January 18, 2012

9 Things To Do When Your Roof Leaks

Springtime storms can bring a lot of rain, which can retell roof leaks. What should you do when an April shower finds its way into your living room?

First, control the interior damage as swiftly as possible.

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Move any items that have not yet come to be soaked. If furniture or other items cannot be moved, cover them with plastic sheets to safe them from the water. Gain dripping water in a leak proof holder and make sure the holder is on a solid surface.

Remove the water.

Begin to dry up water that has soaked into carpeting and furniture. For carpeting that has come to be wet, you may need to pull the carpeting away from the padding. Expose the backing to air and allow it to dry. This will also give the padding underneath a chance to dry, and cut the chance that mold will grow. Circulate as much fresh air as inherent around the affected areas.

Call your insurance agent.

If your living space has sustained a needful whole of damage, call your insurance agent. Your procedure may or may not cover damage to the interior from a roof leak. Do not wait to call the agent. They can normally observe the damage within hours of your call and help you get started on the process of cleaning up or replacing your damaged contents.

Inspect the roof, inside and out.

As soon as possible, check the roof for confident sources of standing or pooling water. Make sure the valleys, gutters and downspouts are clear of debris and allow the water to move freely off the roof and away from the house. observe the roofing materials. Make sure all parts of the fundamental roof are covered with shingles, and that the water barrier is not exposed in any way. Keep in mind that the water's point of entry into the living space may not be directly below the roof leak. Roof leaks can "travel" so observe the whole region of the leak carefully. You may also find it beneficial to observe the roof from the attic space above the living quarters. That may supply a great indication of how the water is entering the structure.

Clear the gutters and downspouts.

Remove any confident blockages and clear the downspouts if they are clogged. You can often do this with a garden hose. If the downspout is clogged, and it cannot be cleared with a hose, you may have to remove the downspout from the gutter and clear it by inverting the downspout or using a broom deal with or other long object to push the debris out of the pipe. When it is clear, reattach it to the gutter and direct the water away from the foundation.

Inspect the flashing.

Some roof leaks are not the supervene of clogged gutters or downspouts. Instead, leaks occur where the roofing material is worn or damaged. In other cases, the flashing around chimneys, vents, or roof projections is damaged and allows water into the structure below. observe the flashing, where chimneys, dormers, vents and other attachments abut the roof. If the flashing is in poor condition, it may need to be replaced. If the sealing around the flashing is damaged, a generous application of roof tar may plug the leak.

Look for private damage.

Roof leaks often produce over time, so water may Gain unnoticed for some time before it enters the living space. When you observe the attic, check for any private damage that the leak may have caused. Look for wet spots on the roof planks or panels, discolored wood, damaged Osb panels, strange odors and dirt on the insulation. Check the interior for bulges in the ceilings and walls, peeling paint, and badly cracked plaster or wallboard. All of these are signs that something may not be right in your attic or walls.

Check for pests.

Ants and other water-loving pests will find wet wood a very fascinating place to build a nest. If you sense a sudden invasion of ants, powder post beetles, pill bugs, sow bugs, earwigs or other water-loving pests, immediately look for wet wood. An exterminator can rid your house of these pests, but the only way to make sure they stay away is to remove the wet wood and remediate the problem.

Call a licensed roofing contractor.

If your inspection reveals a lot of water damage, or an old roof that simply needs replacement, and if you aren't up to replacing it yourself, call a licensed roofing undertaker of a package deal to fix or replace your roof. simply re-shingling the roof will not fix most roof leaks. If the roof is leaking, the most likely cause is a breakdown of the waterproofing layer underneath the shingles. In that case, all old shingles should be torn off, and the water proofing layer, along with the shingles, should be replaced.

Re-roofing can be expensive, so be sure to get any estimates from distinct contractors before choosing person to do the work. Verify that the undertaker of a package deal you choose is licensed, has insurance and will apply for the proper municipal permits to do the work. Do not allow the undertaker of a package deal to begin work on the house if permits have not been issued and make sure the undertaker of a package deal replaces all of the damaged wood prior to re-roofing the house. After the roof work is complete, ask the undertaker of a package deal to go over proper roof maintenance with you, and be sure to get a final inspection from your municipal housing authority.

9 Things To Do When Your Roof Leaks

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Monday, January 16, 2012

Upgrade Your Rv With Led Lighting

If you do a lot of boondocking (no hookups while camping), then you know battery life is one of the most leading things you must plan for, especially if you have a small battery bank. One great way to save a lot of power is to convert your existing incandescent lighting to Led lighting. Led stands for light emitting diode and provides light in a very distinct way than incandescent or fluorescent lighting sources. The biggest benefit for a boondocker is that Leds wish very little power to operate, so you won't have to be so known of switching off lights when you don't need them.

Just how much power can you save by going Led? In a typical trip trailer of say 27 feet with a super slide and a combine of bunk beds, you may have upwards of 20+ 12 watt incandescent bulbs. If you were to have all of these on at one time, you would be drawing colse to 20 amps of Dc power. In a few hours, your single group 24 12-volt battery would be near dead. Even if you had two batteries, you wouldn't have much left to finish out a 2-day weekend without a battery recharge.

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Now if you were to replace every interior incandescent bulb in this fictitious trip trailer with a 24 Led array warm color lamp, each drawing 190 mA, the total power consumption drops to 3.8 amps, over 5 times less power consumption. You wouldn't likely replace every incandescent bulb with a 24 Led array lamp but you could and if you did, you would be using 5 times less power, even if you had every light switched on.

There are several distinct routes you can take when doing the Led lighting mod: private lights, such as a night or reading light, all or some interior lights, interior and exterior, storage compartments, etc. Much will depend on you allocation and coolness factor you are trying to achieve. Replacing every incandescent bulb may just break your piggy bank, but doing a few can still help save some battery power.

Using a single Led for a night light, like in the bathroom, can be a real life saver. Well, it may not save your life but if you have to get up at 2am to go, you won't be blinded by the light and you should be able to go right back to sleep. A single Led associated through a Spst toggle switch mounted on the bathroom light fixture can provide just sufficient light to do your business.

Perhaps you just want to convert a few lights out, like the lights over your bed, that are ordinarily too fascinating to read by. There are direct replacement Led lamps that wish no modification to the lighting fixture, other than swapping bulbs. For this type of Led lamp, use the "warm white" type. The cool white Leds provide a bluish tint to the light color and may not petition to your reading tastes. The warm white Leds provide a yellowish light color very similar to that of a normal incandescent bulb.

If you plan on replacing the main lights inside the Rv and have the type of fixtures that include two bulbs with a switch in the middle, you can replace just one of the bulbs to sell out cost. This way you not only save money, but you also can still provide more light when you need it by switching on the second bulb. For this case, you should think Leds that have a wide beam angle, at least 120 degrees. This is the angle at which light is projected from the lamp. The wider the great if you're trying to light up a large area. These lamps are typically configured in a flat box with many Leds, as many as 36 in some cases. They plainly affix to the fixture with Velcro and plug in just like a suitable bulb.

Another cool Led mod is to fit a Led rope light under your Rvs countertop. Many upscale Rvs have this highlight as a suitable selection but there is no think you can't have this classy look either. First, have person help you test fit the rope for length, ensuring you have sufficient for the whole countertop. Then get some double-sided tape and stick it to the cabinet or under the countertop where you want the rope to run. If you have any left over rope, drill a hole the size of the rope's diameter and run the excess through the hole. Just stick the rope to the tape and press firmly. You can also add a switch to operate the rope power as well.

A step light is also someone else easy Led mod that consumes very little power. If you forget to turn it off, you don't have to worry since it can be on for days and still be easy on your battery. You can use a courtesy light or an amber side ticket light. These mount with a combine of screws to the underside of the stairwell. Power can be run to an inconspicuous switch inside. Some even have light sensors so they can automatically turn on when it gets dark and turn off in the morning.

Outside compartments are also a great candidate for Led lights. These can be powered through a pin switch so that when you open the compartment door, the light turns on, and then off when you close the door. The color of the Led light is not so leading as is the placement of the light. Compartments are ordinarily rectangular in shape, so try and place the Leds near the corners of the compartment. This way, you will get the most light to all parts of the storage area.

Finally, upgrading your Rvs face lighting can make for a very clean look as well as improve security going to the road. Led porch, marker, clearance, backup, turn, and running lights are all candidates for Led replacement. Fortunately for you, many companies, like Bargman for example, now make direct replacement fixtures that include all you need to achieve the upgrade. Just be sure to allocation sufficient since total face lighting replacement can run in to the hundreds of dollars.

Tip: Led brake/tail lamps may not work with some older thermal flasher units found on some vehicles. An Led brake/tail lamp will wish an electronic flasher/blinker unit which is ordinarily ready at your local auto parts store. Just ask for the electronic equivalent of your thermal flasher.

Upgrade Your Rv With Led Lighting

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Sunday, January 15, 2012

Rv Tips for holding Tanks

Today we're going to talk about Rv retention tanks. To start with, I wanted to mention something about Rv retention tanks that I don't think a lot of Rvers are aware of. Many of the free dump stations available to Rvers are windup because of chemicals that are harmful to septic systems and because Rvers are abusing these dump stations. If we want to have passage to these dump stations it is for real primary that we use septic safe chemicals (no formaldehyde), and that we clean up after ourselves and do not abuse dump stations.

Your Rv has what is referred to as a gray water retention tank and a black water retention tank. The gray water retention tank collects dirty water from the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower. The black water retention tank is for the toilet. These tanks halt into one main outlet used to empty the retention tanks. This is where we associate our sewer hose.

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Make sure you have the required couplings and connectors. It may be primary to attach two hoses together to reach the sewer connection. I recommend you only use heavy duty sewer hoses. Their not that high-priced and they hold up much better. Keep a 10 foot hose and a 20 foot hose available. Do not pull or drag the sewer hose on the ground. This will cause it to tear or get pin holes in it.

To hook up the sewer hose make sure both valves are ended and remove the sewer cap. Make the connection by putting the hose adapter over the outlet and turn it clockwise until it locks securely in place. Take the other end of the hose over to the campground sewer connection. Use the primary adapters to make the connection and get a good seal. It's a good idea to place some weight over the hose so it doesn't jump back out when you drain the tanks. It may be primary to use some type of sewer hose keep to get a good angle from the Rv to the campground sewer connection so the tanks drain properly when you empty them. The small valve is for the gray water tank and the large valve is for the black water tank.

One golden rule for Rv retention tanks is to never dump the black water tank until it is at least two thirds full. You want the tank nearly full so the weight and the gravity will force the contents of the tank to drain properly. Another golden rule is to never leave the black tank valve open at the campground and expect the toilet to drain or flush like the toilet in your home. It won't work.

When the tanks are full, or nearly full all the time dump the black tank first, followed by the gray tank. The gray water tank should also be at least two thirds full. Dumping the gray water tank last will help to flush the sewer hose out.

When you're at the campground for an extended period of time you can leave the gray tank valve partially open so it drains as you use it, but remember to Never do this with the black tank. If it's time to leave the campground and your retention tanks are not full you can halt filling them with water and then dump them. Never use your drinking water hose for retention tank maintenance or cleaning purposes. Rv drinking hoses are usually white. Take a dissimilar color hose for others uses so you can distinguish the difference.

After you dump the tanks you need to completely flush the tanks out. Some Rvs have a built in system for flushing the tanks out. If not there are other ways to do it. You can use a tank wand designed for cleaning and flushing the black tank. The only problem is you don't know when or if the black tank is for real clean and you can't rinse or clean the gray tank with a wand. I use a stock called the Flush King. It's a reverse flush valve that connects directly to your sewer outlet and rinses and cleans both retention tanks in one straightforward operation. It's easy to use and it has a see through barrel so you know when the tanks are for real clean.

Every time you dump the black tank you need to treat it with retention tank chemicals to sustain in controlling odors and to break down solids. You should all the time use environmentally safe chemicals. Enzyme based chemicals use the good bacteria to dispell waste and operate odors. Formaldehyde based chemicals destroy the bacteria that's needed to break down waste and they can be risky to humans and pets.

The first step is to add sufficient water to completely cover the lowest of the tank. Four or five toilet bowls full should be sufficient depending on the size of your black tank. Water will sustain a great deal with controlling retention tank odors. You all the time want the contents of the tank to be covered by water. Next, fill the toilet bowl and add the proper amount of retention tank chemicals, usually four ounces for every forty gallons the tank holds. Flush the toilet. Repeat this procedure every time you empty the black water retention tank. Some retention tank chemicals like Rv Trine also contains valve lubricants to keep the valves operating properly and expand the valve seals life.

You should all the time use toilet paper designed for use in Rvs. This toilet paper breaks down and dissolves in the retention tank chemicals preventing possible problems with the retention tank, the Rv sewer system and the dump hub septic system.
False retention tank readings on your monitor panel are caused by the retention tank probes being covered by toilet tissue or other debris. If flushing the tank doesn't solve the problem add some water and a couple bags of ice cubes to the empty retention tank. Drive or pull the trailer so the ice cubes can scrub the sides of the tank. proper retention tank chemicals will also keep the retention tank probes clean.

Over time grease and residue builds up in the gray tank and it causes a foul odor, not to mention how it is affecting the tank and valve assembly. Periodically treat the gray tank with environmentally safe retention tank chemicals to avoid odors from the tank. When the tank is empty you can also add some dish washing liquid down the drains to help break down grease and residue build up.

Following these straightforward retention tank tips can forestall problems and provide you with long continuing problem free retention tanks. This is one problem we can all do without! All of our Rv walk-through videos cover information on Rv retention tanks, the water system, Lp gas system, electrical system and more. Check out our new "Rv primary Items" Dvd to show you what items you will want for your Rv to make all of your Rv experiences more enjoyable.

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv education 101

Rv Tips for holding Tanks

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